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Comparison
with the first survey of Beckenham at this scale, made in the 1860s', reveals
a remarkable difference. The area
then was almost entirely rural in character, with Beckenham itself no more
than a village, but the intervening years had seen it grow into a significant
suburb, almost a town, with urban district status only a couple of years away.
All this was made possible largely through the development of
the railways, a complicated network of lines turning Beckenham into a junction
(a role augmented today by the Croydon tramway), although landowners had mixed
feelings over the benefits the trains would bring. This growth saw a wave of new building, including a complete
rebuilding of the parish church, and this continued into the 20th century, so
that the village is a great deal more modern than we might expect. Indeed,
for interesting Victorian architecture there is more to be found on the Penge
side of the map.
However,
the first problem caused by the map lies in the distinction between the two
villages, for much of the area we think of as Penge is in fact Beckenham. The
latter parish stretched further west than might be expected, with a spur
reaching right up to the Crystal Palace, while Penge, until the late 19th
century a detached portion of Battersea parish, was across the border in
Surrey. Whether this situation was always the case seems a moot point,
for Kent House traditionally took its name from being the first house in
Kent. Nevertheless, the border
shown on this map is clear, even if the lettering does sometimes dissolve into
a plethora of initials: so 3ft.Tk.F.
means
three feet from the track of fence, S.S. means single stream, R.H.
root
of hedge, F.F. face
of fence, F.W. face
of wall, and FP. face of palings rather than the footpath it might signify in
another context.
Of
the two, Penge was the first to see significant growth, encouraged by the
development of leisure facilities both at Crystal Palace and Anerley, and by
the canal and later railway, the Brighton line, running just west of this map.
As the following figures show, its population rose rapidly between 1851 and
1881, then levelled off, while Beckenham's largely grew in the latter decades
of the century:
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YEAR
1841
1851
1861
1871
1881
1891
1901
1911
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PENGE
270
1,169
5,015
13,202
18,650
20,375
22,465
22,330
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BECKENHAM
1,608
1,688
2,124
6,090
13,045
20,707
26,331
31,692
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By
the time of this map, therefore, Beckenham was once again the larger of the
two, but this was to a large part due to population growth on the fringes of
Penge, near to Penge station ‑ which was, of course, in Beckenham!
Properly in Penge, however, was the Police Station, opened at the corner of
Green Lane in 1872 and replacing a temporary station opened two years earlier.
Police stations seldom feature in the historical notes to these maps, but that
at Penge has special interest as being the oldest still in use in the
Metropolis. Just five years after its opening it must have been a hive of
activity, for in 1877 the so‑called Penge Murder attracted national
publicity, Harriet Staunton having been starved to death at 34 Forbes Road by
her husband and his mistress. It was in vain that the authorities changed the
name of the road to Mosslea Road, or protested that the actual house was
across the border in Beckenham; the aura of gentility had been lost forever
and it acquired the unfair reputation of being a 'low neighbourhood', only
slightly modified later into that of a joke suburb, the Neasden of south
London.
This
was certainly not the impression Queen Adelaide would have wanted when she
gave E100 towards the building of the Royal Asylum, the Almshouses of the
Company of Waterman and Lightermen. The
building, one of the most impressive in south London, was opened in 1841 when
76 candidates were approved: 34 married men (i.e. couples), 10 single men, and
32 widows. The building, on three sides of a quadrangle, was in an extravagantly late‑Tudor or Jacobean style, with a magnificent
gatehouse at the rear, complete with ogee
towers and oriel window. The
building is normally given as the work of George Porter, a Bermondsey
architect of little distinction who appears to have received no
follow‑up commissions to this masterpiece. It seems likely, therefore,
that the real genius behind the work was his assistant, S.S.Teulon, a
suspicion given substance by stylistic similarities with almshouses built
for the Dyers Company in King Henry's Walk, Islington (since demolished) and
perhaps with Tortworth Court in Gloucestershire
The
principal benefactor to the almshouses was John Dudin Brown, a freeman of the
Company of Watermen, who gave two acres of land plus generous sums of money,
and who later contributed towards St John's church, built in 1850 on an
adjacent site, described at the time as a church both for the watermen and the
people of Penge, and the work of Edwin Nash and J.N.Round. Queen Adelaide,
meanwhile, had founded another asylum, named after her husband King William IV
and reflecting the status of Penge at the time, for this was for the widows of
12 commissioned naval officers. Also built in the 1840s, this was designed by
Philip Hardwicke in a more domestic Tudor style, tall chimneys the principal
ornament.
Across
the railway the cottages of the Alexandra Estate stand out. These were built
1866‑8 by the Metropolitan Association for Improving the Dwellings of
the Industrious Classes, on the land of the old Porcupine Farm, bought at a
favourable cost from the Duke of Westminster. They are remarkable in being
semi‑detached houses rather than the usual terraces, the houses having
their entrances at the side and comprising four rooms plus a small scullery.
By 1877 a three‑storey Beckenham Coffee House & Public Baths had
been built to serve them, together with an Institute and Mission Hall nearby
to serve as a social centre. Holy Trinity church was built in 1878, founded by
a tea merchant Francis Peek (related to the Peek, Frean biscuit family) who
gave not just the new living to the Rev S.Whitfield Daukes but also a
prestigious boys' school opposite ‑ named after the landowner Albermarle
Cator ‑ and the hand of his eldest daughter Lydia in marriage.
There
is a homespun charm to the Alexandra Cottages, and to their accompanying
terraced cottages in Princes Road. These houses were intended for labourers
and gardeners 'serving the great houses of Beckenham', highlighting the very
different building project going ahead at the eastern side of the map. John
Cator had acquired the Manor of Beckenham in 1773; further lands were added,
including Copers Cope Farm north of the village centre, and Kent House Farm
towards Penge and his family would be responsible for much of the development
of the village during the 19th century. The Old Manor House stood on Bromley
Road, just opposite the church ‑ it was demolished in the 1880s to make
way for Council Offices and a Public Hall ‑ but for his main residence
Cator built Beckenham Place, at the top of Stumps Hill north east of this map.
During the 19th century this was leased to William Peters, who established a
cricket ground nearby. Kent House was let out as a farm but the family
acquired the Clock House, built in the early 18th century and at one time home
to Admiral Sir Piercy Brett. At one time John Cator's brother, Joseph lived
here although it was later let out to tenants. It took its name from the large
clock on the stable block but in 1896 the house itself was demolished. The
stables lasted until the 1920s but the clock had already been removed to
Beckenham Place.
Although
they were principal landowners, the Cator family spent much of their time at
the family home in Norfolk, Woodbastwick Hall, purchased by John Cator's son
Barwell in 1813. A sporting eccentric, Barwell soon ran up major debts and in
the 1820s parliamentary approval was sought and obtained to develop his
lands for housing. He was thus able to mortgage them and this was sufficient
to ward off the creditors, and no appreciable development was started until
the 1860s. Land was sold off cheaply to the railway, but more profitably for
upmarket housing, and by 1864 the pattern of roads shown north of the railway
was drawn up, including Copers Cope Road, The Avenue and others. The houses
were to be large detached ones in ample grounds, with the usual clauses forbidding
their use for trade, education and the like; broad gravel roads, lined with
forest trees, were meant to attract a suitable clientele, most of whom were
expected to commute to the city. In
1866 the Abbey School was built on the site of a former gravel pit; partly
intended for the sons of local inhabitants, it was a boarding school, with
boys given the privacy of cubicles within the dormitories. The school's social
cachet is shown by the fact that many boys went on to Eton, Harrow or
Winchester. In 1876 Christ Church was built on the old Tuns Field,
where
an annual fair had been held until c.1860. To maintain the character of the
area the Cators also insisted on a clause when they sold land to the railway
companies, whereby the latter paid £2,000 additional rent if trains ran at
certain times on Sundays. This is normally taken to mean during Divine
Service, but Albermarle Cator seems to have been as concerned that trains
should not call in the afternoon, and that the 'district would not be
inundated by trippers from London', the effects of which he had doubtless seen
at Crystal Palace and Anerley. Certainly a clause in an early timetable that
the 1.56 Down and 2.30 and 4.30 Up trains 'will not stop as advertised' seems
to have very little bearing on the traditional times for church services.
The
first railway to arrive had been the Mid Kent Railway, an ambitious title for
a line that ran less than 5 miles along the edge of the county from Lewisham
to Beckenham. This opened in 1857, the Cator family further protecting the
value of their land by stipulating there should be no goods depot, and
arranging for the landscaping of the railway verges. The following year
Beckenham became a junction when the West End of London & Crystal Palace
line was opened from Shortlands, forming a somewhat circuitous route to London
via the Crystal Palace; this became part of the London Chatham & Dover
Railway, who in 1863 opened their direct route to London via Penge. Finally,
in 1864 the Mid Kent Railway, by now effectively part of the South Eastern
Railway, opened a 3'i4 mile branch from New Beckenham to Addiscombe Road,
Croydon. Within seven years, therefore, no less than four railway lines had
been built across our map, although their rapid construction would leave a
legacy for future generations in the form of frequent flooding, especially
where the Mid Kent crossed low above the Chaffinch Brook.
Confusion
seems to have reigned regarding the stations too. For some reason the original
New Beckenham station was built south of the junction but it was quickly
realised that trains would be better divided at the junction into portions for
Addiscombe and Beckenham, a practice that continued until the 1920s. To cope
with this a new junction station was opened for New Beckenham as early as
1866, a locomotive frequently pushing the Beckenham Junction portion round the
spur, unusual in those days of indifferent brakes and a rattling, jolting
experience for those on board. The first New Beckenham station therefore had a
life of only two years, and the LC&D station at Beckenham Road fared
little better; ironically this latter is being rebuilt in 1999, for the
Croydon Tramway which will follow the up (southernmost) track and terminate in
the former yard at Beckenham Junction, alongside Rectory Road.
The
railway brought prosperity to Beckenham, as the large villas and their well
tended gardens showed, and for many years trains were said to run with crowded
first class carriages. Public road transport was predictably less successful,
and an attempt by the Penge & Anerley Omnibus Co to run an hourly
horse‑bus service from Crystal Palace to Beckenham Junction in 1883
quickly closed due to lack of support; not until 1895 did Tillings operate a
more durable service, while various projects for tramways never came beyond
Penge. Nevertheless, by the turn of the century, the first flush of prosperity
was slightly on the wane, and in 1911 some 13% of houses at Penge, and 9% at
Beckenham stood empty, apparently because they were considered
'old‑fashioned'. This largely hit the Penge end of Beckenham, but during
the 20th century many of the fine villas have been replaced by (admittedly
upmarket) flats.
The
Cator influence was along lasting one, the leafy roads north of Beckenham
Junction continuing to give the area much appeal. Penge is, at first glance, a
great deal less fashionable, but the historian willing to explore that area on
foot will find much of architectural interest. This continues up to the
present, with the rebuilding of Holy Trinity following an arson attack in
1993; dormer windows give extensive natural light into the Victorian building,
the apse has become an open air garden, and the fact that the church was
rebuilt in so exciting a manner, when so many suburban churches have been made
redundant, is proof of the community spirit of the area. John and Albemarle
Cator would have approved.
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